Garden Types - Created Date : 1.8.2019

Even if composting is really simple, it can be scary. If you resist th...

Even if composting is really simple, it can be scary. If you resist th...



Even if composting is really simple, it can be scary. If you resist the tendency and tendency because it looks disgusting, let's clean the air.

Now is the perfect time to start a compost pile. You can make it fancy or simple. If you know me, you know I always prefer to be simple. Compost is the most important thing you can use in your garden (lawn, garden and landscaping) to increase the efficiency of your garden, get rid of kitchen and garden waste efficiently and save time and money. The only science involved is the science of decomposition - when everything decomposes, they become the most powerful and valuable fertilizer on the market. Why buy from the store when you can do it for free at home?

Step 1: Decide where to put it and if you need to put it in something.

If you're lucky to be able to live in a beautiful piece of land, you can make a pile of compost in a corner. You don't really need a container to make compost. However, if you live on a smaller terrain, you may want to buy a container to keep things tidy. I've tried many containers over the years. My husband's favorite thing is the compost tumbler, probably because he can bring it closer to the kitchen door in winter. My favorite container I've sent from England, it looks very nice in my vegetarian garden, mostly. We keep our compost containers in a vegetable patch, because that's where most weeds and vegetarian leftovers enter, and where black gold comes out. If you live in the city, you'll probably want a container. All compost containers (except compost cups) are like garbage cans, but with no bottoms, good germs in the soil can get in and do their jobs. If you have an old trash you can lie to, you can cut your bottom and voilà! You have a composer.

Step 2: Start collecting things to put in your stack.

From outside the house, you can put weeds (not poison ivy), leaves, dying plant material and garden waste. From inside the house, you can buy an ornate compost bucket for your kitchen sink, or just use a bucket or an old container to collect kitchen waste. Toxic, meat, bones, processed foods, dairy products and pet poop are among the things to avoid putting in the compost pile. But from vegetables or fruits, eggshells, coffee or tea fields, and shells of oysters and crabs, other kitchen waste is good, really good. Take these things to your heap on a daily basis, otherwise they will begin to decompose inside the house and start to smell. Keep your waste container clean between loads; so you can perform a clean-smelling, effective composting process in your home.

Step 3: Wait. Some people, compost specialists, may have all kinds of detailed rituals and techniques to speed up the composting process. But if you wait, it never fails. Keep adding to the top and in a few months, at the bottom, there will be a rich, dark, fertile compost that will spread around. (That's why many composers have little doors underneath - no, not the compost dwarves coming in to do their work! ... Or is it?)

Unfortunately, peonies are blooming now, but it's just going to show what a little compost can do!

Step 4: Use.

If you don't use it, you don't lose ... just waiting for you. Even if you never use it, you did a great job keeping waste away from the public waste stream. However, compost loves to be used. Lightly distribute your lawn to make it greener. You can put it on vegetable patch for bigger, healthier, stronger vegetables to grow. You can put your flowers in your flower beds to make them more sweet and pest resistant. You can sprinkle around house plants or container plants. You can pack it up nicely and give it to your friends and neighbors.

Compost is an organic gardener's most powerful tool for growing healthy, pest and beautiful gardens. Now there's nothing to stop you from starting!



6 Lawn Care Musts for Your Fall Yard

Among lawn care professionals, the best way to achieve thick, green and healthy lawn in spring is to give a well-timed care in autumn - in other words, right now. However, according to Scott Frith, CEO of Lawn Doctor, a lawn care company with more than 200 franchises nationwide, many homeowners make the same basic mistakes before they fall asleep and then cause better performance of their lawn. Wonders. . I wonder more. Here is Frith's seven-step program to get a nice lawn next year.

1. Remove the leaves.

A carpet of colorful autumn leaves can look nice and can be fun to play, but they are not good for your lawn. Blocks light and traps moisture, potentially fatal strokes for unlucky grass beneath. So as the leaves fall, blow or rake them as often as possible. Even after the trees remain bare, continue to remove the corners of the wind. If you don't do this, come on the grass at the bottom of this grassland, the rotting mat will be dead.

2. Continue cutting, but to the correct height.

Don't put that mower away yet. The grass continues to grow until the first hard frost and therefore requires regular cuts to keep it ideally 2 to 3 inches high. If you let it stay too long, it becomes dull and vulnerable to fungi such as snow mold. Cutting grass too short is equally bad because it shortens the root system - the root depth is proportional to the cutting height and prevents the ability of the lawn to withstand cold and dryness in winter. Regular mowing also gets rid of pesky leaves, cuts them and leaves behind a soil-enhancing mulch.

3. Continue watering.

Frith says people tend to stop watering in the fall as the weather gets cold. Lar They think nature will do things for them, or he says. While it is true that there is more rain, more dew and less evaporation at this time of year, this may not be enough to keep the grass roots juicy and healthy in the winter. If your lawn does not receive at least an inch of water per week - the best way to follow a simple rain gauge - then run the sprinklers or irrigation system until the end of October. Until then you will want to remove hoses and flush the irrigation system to prevent frozen pipes and plugs.

4. Loosen the soil.

According to Frith, regular ventilation - every few years, prevents the soil from being compacted and covered with thatch, and a thick layer of roots, stems and debris that prevents water, oxygen and nutrients from reaching the soil. A core aerator corrects both problems by drilling holes in that hole and pulling the earth plug up. "It is a good idea to ventilate a lawn just before fertilization," says Frith. "All these holes in your lawn will allow the manure to reach the roots that it can do best."

5. Add fertilizer.

Just as grass roots need water to last in winter, they also benefit from a shot of plant sugars that protect the roots against frost and give energy to the whole plant to spring back in the spring. These sugars are produced by chlorophyll, which is produced by the grass in abundance when there is enough nitrogen. Frith therefore recommends a slow release of the slow release granular fertilizer 24-0-10. The figures indicate the weight percent by weight of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, respectively. Potassium is also important because it helps root growth, disease protection, drought tolerance and cold resistance. (A soil test can tell you how much of your lawn really needs it.) However, be careful about spreading fertilizers near the waterways; they are vulnerable to contamination from the second stream. The Grass Doctor's company policy is to provide a 5-meter buffer wherever there is water.

6. Seed spread.

“A dense lawn also provides good protection against weeds, Fr says Frith. It is therefore important to inspect existing lawns. This not only fills fine stains or bare stains, but also allows you to get to know the last, durable, drought-resistant grass. The best time to fall is autumn, because the ground is still warm, the humidity is higher, the nights are cool and the sun is not that hot during the day. But even then, “over-seeding is one of the most challenging lawn care jobs, Fr says Frith. You cannot simply release the seeds on a lawn and wait for them to wait. They must be in full contact with the soil, remain moist until they germinate, and be sufficiently stable before very cold. Renting a split seeder is a better option than broadcasting, but these machines are notorious for tearing the lawn and making your lawn look like a rake. Frith says the Lawn Doctor's special Turf Tamer power seeder, which injects seeds into the soil, is a less damaging option.