Garden Types - Created Date : 27.8.2019

Don't let weeds rob your garden of its beauty—some of these plants cho...

Don't let weeds rob your garden of its beauty—some of these plants cho...



Don't let weeds rob your garden of its beauty—some of these plants choke out the garden plants you've worked so hard to grow. Use our guide to help identify and control these troublesome pests.

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25 No-Cost (or Low-Cost) Garden Tools

Turn everyday items into gear that will help you make your garden grow better. Any job is easier when you have the right tool.

Read on for our list of the 25 best ideas for garden tools that you can buy or make in minutes -- and none costs more than a pack of seeds.

The Magic Milk Jug

For sheer versatility in the garden, nothing comes close to the humble plastic milk jug. Save both half-gallon and gallon sizes to create these garden helpers.

Seed flats. Starting your own seeds is the easiest way to cut your gardening costs to the bone. And it's the only way to get many of the newest varieties. To save space and bother, start seeds in shallow trays filled with potting soil, then transplant the strongest seedlings to pots later on. To make free seed flats, cut off the bottom three inches of a gallon milk jug and punch a few holes in the bottom with a nail. Fill with potting mix, and use a pencil to create two or three shallow furrows for sowing. Then plant your seeds according to the packet directions.

Mini greenhouse. In northern zones, young transplants and seedlings are easy prey for spring and fall frosts. Protect them with their own personal greenhouse. Just cut the bottom off a gallon milk jug and, when a cold snap is in the forecast, place the jug over the plant. You can regulate the temperature somewhat by putting the cap on or taking it off. Just be sure to remove the cover on warm, sunny days to prevent turning your greenhouse into a sauna.

Flexible scoop. This simple scoop is fashioned from a half-gallon plastic milk jug. It's great for distributing fertilizer granules or potting soil in tight spaces. To craft it, make two horizontal cuts on the sides adjacent to the handle, and two forward-slanting diagonal cuts in the other sides.

Liquid fertilizer distribution system. Okay, the name might be a bit of a stretch, but this idea is a winner. Use plastic milk jugs to mix up liquid fertilizer, then punch a hole or two in the cap with a nail. Use your "system" to deliver a dose of plant food to even the smallest pots or plants.

Protection plus. If you use a cold frame to extend your growing season, line the inside with plastic milk jugs filled with water. The water be warmed by the sun, and will help reduce temperature swings inside the cold frame. The result: a lower chance of frost damage at night and overheating during the day.

Towels, Blankets, and Tablecloths -- Oh My!

Never throw away a worn or damaged vinyl tablecloth. There are just too many ways to put these old soldiers to work in the field.

Corral dirt. When digging a hole, spread an old tablecloth out nearby to keep your dirt from getting, well, dirty. You won't lose precious top soil, and you'll keep your surroundings clean.

A moving experience. Use a vinyl tablecloth, plastic side down, to transport heavy items like bags of mulch, plant divisions, or balled-and-burlapped trees and shrubs. Even if you have a wheelbarrow, this ground-level transportation system may be easier on your back for many chores.

Frost protection. A lightweight blanket, towel, or tablecloth (or blanket) can save your tender annuals from certain death when a frost is forecast. Covering works especially well on clear nights, when the open sky literally sucks heat out of unprotected leaves.

Ties that bind. Worn-out towels, cut into strips, make safe and secure ties for supporting plants. They may not look good enough for your prized perennial bed, but the gentle caress of the terry cloth is perfect for heavy vegetables, like this tomato plant.

Yogurt Containers

Close behind milk jugs for the "most versatile" award, yogurt containers (and their cousins, plastic sour cream and margarine tubs) have many uses in the garden.

Cutworm collars. Protect young seedlings from night-crawling cutworms by surrounding them with a collar made by cutting the bottom off a yogurt container. Sink the container an inch or so into the ground, leaving 2 to 3 inches above ground. You can remove the collar, if you like, when the plant's stem hardens.

The scoop. Small plastic tubs are perfect for scooping and broadcasting granular fertilizers and driveway de-icer pellets.

Cheap flower pots. Tubs that are at least 3 inches deep make free flower pots if you poke a few holes in the bottom with a nail. Save the lid, and you have a tray to catch drips -- if you water carefully, at least.

All the News

Newspapers are the key ingredient for "no-till" garden beds. To create a new planting area without the work of digging, just mow the area as short as possible, spread with 6 or more layers or newspaper, and top with enough compost, soil, or mulch to hold the papers in place.

Over a few months, the newspaper will smother weeds and grasses, then decay into the bare soil. You now have a pristine planting bed ready to receive trees, shrubs, or flowers.

Dollar-Store Treasure

You can pay a lot for a high-quality pruner, but for most everyday trimming chores, get a $1 pair of kitchen shears at the dollar store. That way, if you lose them or leave them out in the rain, you won't be kicking yourself.

From Junk to Jewels

Let's wrap up with a collection of quick-hits.

Old dish pans. Fill with some potting soil and supplies, and you have a portable potting bench that you can take anywhere.

Carpet scraps. Use old or leftover carpet to line paths in your vegetable garden. You'll keep weeds at bay, and give yourself clean footing even when the garden is wet. Small pieces of lightweight carpet are also useful for covering cold frames on chilly nights.

Jelly jars. Be on the lookout for attractive little containers for small bunches of cut flowers.

Coffee and tuna cans. Use these straight-sided containers to collect and measure rain and sprinkler water. That way, you can be sure that every part of your garden is getting the an inch of water a week.

Broken mini-blinds. Slats from light-colored vinyl mini-blinds make easy-to-see, durable plant labels. Cut them into 8-inch strips with a point at one end. (Note: Older mini-blinds may contain lead; if you are concerned, substitute inexpensive wooden craft sticks.)

Soft drink cans. Rinse well and place in the bottom of large planters to take up some of the space. They provide extra drainage capacity and you'll need less potting soil.

Chopsticks. Whether new or used (and washed), use these little fellows when you start seeds in pots. Add one or two sticks to each pot, then cover with a cheap plastic bag to control moisture. The chopsticks will prevent the bag from collapsing onto the soil. Just be sure to keep your "greenhouse" away from high heat or direct sun.

Egg cartons. These are long-time favorites for starting seeds, one or two per soil-filled cell. To reduce the risk of bacterial contamination, use well-washed Styrofoam egg cartons with a single drainage hole punched in the bottom of each cell.

Broken or cracked flower pots. Sink the broken side halfway into the garden to create attractive artful accents.



6 Lawn Care Musts for Your Fall Yard

Among lawn care professionals, the best way to achieve thick, green and healthy lawn in spring is to give a well-timed care in autumn - in other words, right now. However, according to Scott Frith, CEO of Lawn Doctor, a lawn care company with more than 200 franchises nationwide, many homeowners make the same basic mistakes before they fall asleep and then cause better performance of their lawn. Wonders. . I wonder more. Here is Frith's seven-step program to get a nice lawn next year.

1. Remove the leaves.

A carpet of colorful autumn leaves can look nice and can be fun to play, but they are not good for your lawn. Blocks light and traps moisture, potentially fatal strokes for unlucky grass beneath. So as the leaves fall, blow or rake them as often as possible. Even after the trees remain bare, continue to remove the corners of the wind. If you don't do this, come on the grass at the bottom of this grassland, the rotting mat will be dead.

2. Continue cutting, but to the correct height.

Don't put that mower away yet. The grass continues to grow until the first hard frost and therefore requires regular cuts to keep it ideally 2 to 3 inches high. If you let it stay too long, it becomes dull and vulnerable to fungi such as snow mold. Cutting grass too short is equally bad because it shortens the root system - the root depth is proportional to the cutting height and prevents the ability of the lawn to withstand cold and dryness in winter. Regular mowing also gets rid of pesky leaves, cuts them and leaves behind a soil-enhancing mulch.

3. Continue watering.

Frith says people tend to stop watering in the fall as the weather gets cold. Lar They think nature will do things for them, or he says. While it is true that there is more rain, more dew and less evaporation at this time of year, this may not be enough to keep the grass roots juicy and healthy in the winter. If your lawn does not receive at least an inch of water per week - the best way to follow a simple rain gauge - then run the sprinklers or irrigation system until the end of October. Until then you will want to remove hoses and flush the irrigation system to prevent frozen pipes and plugs.

4. Loosen the soil.

According to Frith, regular ventilation - every few years, prevents the soil from being compacted and covered with thatch, and a thick layer of roots, stems and debris that prevents water, oxygen and nutrients from reaching the soil. A core aerator corrects both problems by drilling holes in that hole and pulling the earth plug up. "It is a good idea to ventilate a lawn just before fertilization," says Frith. "All these holes in your lawn will allow the manure to reach the roots that it can do best."

5. Add fertilizer.

Just as grass roots need water to last in winter, they also benefit from a shot of plant sugars that protect the roots against frost and give energy to the whole plant to spring back in the spring. These sugars are produced by chlorophyll, which is produced by the grass in abundance when there is enough nitrogen. Frith therefore recommends a slow release of the slow release granular fertilizer 24-0-10. The figures indicate the weight percent by weight of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, respectively. Potassium is also important because it helps root growth, disease protection, drought tolerance and cold resistance. (A soil test can tell you how much of your lawn really needs it.) However, be careful about spreading fertilizers near the waterways; they are vulnerable to contamination from the second stream. The Grass Doctor's company policy is to provide a 5-meter buffer wherever there is water.

6. Seed spread.

“A dense lawn also provides good protection against weeds, Fr says Frith. It is therefore important to inspect existing lawns. This not only fills fine stains or bare stains, but also allows you to get to know the last, durable, drought-resistant grass. The best time to fall is autumn, because the ground is still warm, the humidity is higher, the nights are cool and the sun is not that hot during the day. But even then, “over-seeding is one of the most challenging lawn care jobs, Fr says Frith. You cannot simply release the seeds on a lawn and wait for them to wait. They must be in full contact with the soil, remain moist until they germinate, and be sufficiently stable before very cold. Renting a split seeder is a better option than broadcasting, but these machines are notorious for tearing the lawn and making your lawn look like a rake. Frith says the Lawn Doctor's special Turf Tamer power seeder, which injects seeds into the soil, is a less damaging option.